Rebel Country

"Petrich is strictly for connoisseurs of Balkan towns that have got rich quick by shady means... with more dollar millionaires and top-of-the-range cars than anywhere in Bulgaria" (From the authors of The Rough Guide to Bulgaria). If there was ever a wild west in Europe, Petrich and the rest of southwest Bulgaria would fit the bill. Throughout the 1920s and 30s, Petrich donned the highest murder rate in all of Bulgaria. At one time it was possible to pay an assasain the equivalant of 6 USD to knock off an enemy or merely someone who did you wrong. Southwest Bulgaria has a strong link to Macedonia. Historically, the region has been described as a place where the freedom movement of the Internal Macedonian Revolutionary Organization (IMRO) thrived. The Macedonian question is heavy on the hearts of people in Petrich and the surrounding villages. People here even identify themselves as Macedonians and a thick dialect prevails that is translatable here in southwest Bulgaria and Macedonia as well. Today, things have changed; however, Petrich is still famous for its mafia ties and exceedingly rich citizens, though not the majority, with decadent cars and houses. The physical geography around Petrich is truly unique but there are not a lot of sights to offer the tourist. However, with the geography, history and culture combined it does make for an interesting place to live. 

Acquiescence

This monument atop Sveta Gora hill near St. Cyril and St. Methodius University in Veliko Tarnovo made a distinct impression on me. The monument depicts Eftimi, the last patriarch in Tarnovo during the 2nd Bulgarian Kingdom (XIV century). With the final fall of the 2nd Kingdom to the Ottomans Eftimi was deported to a monestary to live in exile. He is credited with creating a biographical work of Bulgarian saints and martyrs up to the end of the 14th century. With hands raised to the sky this momument is a strong portrayal of downfall and defeat.

Eastern Europe Sky

From atop Tsaravets Fortress in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria the view opens up on the beautiful old city. At one point in time this was Bulgaria's capital city. At the lower left corner is part of the fortress wall. From there you can see people walking in the street leading away from the city center. Two things that are important in this photograph are the church on the hill and the soccer stadium with its four light poles at the horizon. Religion and soccer are vital parts of life in Eastern Europe.

Alcohol and Ash

The process of making rakia is simple, earthy and humble. I was privileged to observe my landlord, Assen, make his annual batch this past weekend. After harvesting the summer’s crop of grapes, which grow so well in southwestern Bulgaria, you squash the grapes and place them in a barrel with the appropriate amount of sugar and the fermentation begins. Depending on the person, and depending on how strong that person wants his rakia to be, the time in the barrel for the grapes varies. My landlord’s taste requires the alcohol content of his rakia to sit between 48% and 50%. Some guys take it upwards towards 60%. Post fermentation, the grapes are emptied into a vat, covered and then placed on an open fire. This is the village house method. In places with larger populations and other resources the method is more streamlined and not quite as interesting. The best way to get a good result – that is, good tasting rakia – is maintaining a slow and steady fire. You want the rakia to drip out of the pipe and into the pot. If you’re getting anything more than a consistent drip you may be losing some of your product in the form of steam. You don’t want that. This process is repeated depending on how many grapes you’ve appropriated for rakia-making purposes and/or how much rakia you need to get your family, friends and self through the year. It’s necessary to taste the fresh product throughout the afternoon’s process, of course.

Pork: A Balkan Tradition

Holiday traditions in southeastern Europe are truly interesting as seen through western eyes. As December approaches every year people of the Balkans celebrate the season by killing their pigs with a group of friends and family. In Bulgaria, this specific tradition is called the "pig wedding." This event is more common in villages as opposed to cities. The big day begins early in the morning at the host's residence with a toast of warm rakia served with honey. The process of killing the pig is not for the weak in stomach. However, the overall process is rather clean and nothing is goes to waste. When everything is complete, everyone heads inside for an afternoon feast that includes stewed cabbage, rice, salad, rakia, wine and of course the fresh pork. Depending on the crowd, the feast normally turns into a party that goes well into the night. Many Bulgarians say that this tradition is "canabalistic" and rugged. Through western eyes, this much is true. However, it is very much a part of true Balkan culture. Zlatko's pig wedding. From L to R: me, my good friend Zlatko and the accountant from my school.

St. John Kaneo - XIII century

On the forest path leading down from the early Episcopal basilica, the church of St. John Kaneo appears in view. This medieval site is the hallmark of Ohrid, Macedonia as well as one of the most photographed churches in the world. It is situated on the cliff above the fisherman's community of Kaneo. Down the path from the church, in the fisherman's settlement, there is a very small stone beach that is a good for catching sun. Lake Ohrid's waters are very clear and cold but make for excellent for swimming. While traveling back to the town center by boat taxi the spectacle of this site is framed by blue sky. With this vision in your head, while sitting at a lake side cafe, the iced macchiato that Ohrid serves up well taste even better.

Bliss

I run to this place. So many rich things have taken place here on Table Rock lake. My earliest recollections of this place are from my first year at Kanakuk. I believe I was nine. Since then, it has become a haven for family and friends. Whether you're jumping off cliffs, on or behind a boat, enjoying excellent food and drink, or just hanging on the dock late at night you're sure to find yourself well. It's the place closest to home that takes me far away. Here, you're always in good company, high spirits and never alone.